[FAQ]: Products

[XxDrAg0nxX]

All the info here are of the best of my knowledge, hoping you guys are more informed of what you are buying.
Will update and add more as often as I can

Batteries & Chargers
Rifle Scopes & Sights
Tactical Gears
Knives & Multitools
Flashlights
Guns

[XxDrAg0nxX]

BATTERIES & CHARGERS

Why are some Lithium batteries so expensive as compared to others?

• Like may other products, batteries have "Grades", A, B, C, etc.
• Better grade batteries have higher capacities and longer charge retention, but cost more.
• There are MANY brands out there that overstate their capacities even beyond our current level of technology.
• There are also pirated Lithium batteries out there that are actually Alkaline in disguise

Whats the difference between the different types of batteries?

Alkaline Batteries
~ Have an average of 5 years shelf life
~ Prone to leakage which will destroy your flashlight or camera.
~ It is the cheapest of all

Lithium Batteries
~ Best kept as emergencies due to their extra long 10 year average shelf life
~ They are the most expensive.
~ When used in flashlights they are always almost double in brightness due to their higher voltage, but smaller in physical size.
~ Caution: Look out for cheap fakes that claim to be lithium but are not, and old stock

NiMh Rechargeable Batteries
Recent development in technology there are 2 types;

   1. Alkaline hybrids with Low self discharge that maintain their charge for extended periods of time (More suitable for less frequent usage)
   2. High capacity Rechargeables that hold more capacity to let you use your electronics longer. (More suitable for heavy usage)

~ Both especially made by MAHA PowerEx have been tested and proven not to leak.
~ They are also have a stable high voltage required by the high consumption requirements of Professional flashlights and Cameras.

Lithium Ion / LiFe Batteries
~ Being based on Lithium technology, both will not leak.
~ Lithium LiFe (Iron) will not explode (Recommended for flashlights using CR123A, especially those using more than one)
~ Have a generally higher voltage allowing one to get a higher brightness out of their flashlights if their flashlight permits.
~ Compared to standard Lithium which are expensive to keep replacing, they are the most cost effective for long term usage.
~ Batteries like the Lithium 18650 rechargeable have recently become one of the preferred choices in Flashlights due to its high capacity, averaging 40-50% longer runtime usage.

[XxDrAg0nxX]

RIFLE SCOPES AND SIGHTS

Why are some more expensive as compared to others?
There are shit loads of companies who make the same item, All of varying grades and quality.
Differences often found in:

• Clarity / Material of the Optics
• Treatment / coating of the optics
• Grade of the Switches
• Variable resistor that controls the brightness of the illum
• METAL used
• Type of Finishing on the body
• Additional accessories that comes in the box
• The type of mount that comes with the scope

There are MANY scopes that look EXACTLY the same on the outside but on the inside it may be different. So if you see some other scope out there that looks the same and is cheaper, don't be a fucking smart-ass and say we are overcharging you.

One good example is the EoTech, we have 2, one costing $240 and another $130, there ARE cheaper ones that I did not order because of the higher chances of failure.

We have come across some that are TOO cheap, with lens falling out of socket, orings degrading into mush, contacts falling out, switches falling out, even screws breaking off. Like any product, usually its wise to pay that little bit more to get something much better.

What are the ?X? on the scopes refer to?

Example 4x32
The first number 4 is the zoom. Meaning whatever you see through the scope is 4x bigger
The second number 32 is the size of the front lens, ie 32mm. The bigger this number the more field of view you will have (Area you see)
Most red dot sights are 1x, meaning 1:1 no zoom. This is for close quarter combat for quick aiming without distortion.

[XxDrAg0nxX]

TACTICAL GEARS

Why are some gears more expensive as compared to others?

• Material: Good stuff are usually made of high grade 1000 Denier Codura for strength and tear resistance.
• Stitching: The type of threads used and the pattern in which they are stitched.
• Buckles: Crack resistant Nylon and design to resist shocks
• Zippers: Higher grade stuff that do not get stuck or break under pressure
• Layering: Extra layering on parts that tear easily (battle tested and revised)
• Country of Origin: Plays a part in the Quality Control and stress tests.

[XxDrAg0nxX]

KNIVES & MULTITOOLS

What Knives are not allowed in Singapore?

• Balisong AKA Butterfly Knives
• Double edged Daggers
• Spear Heads
• Sharpened Swords
• Automatic knives
• Bayonets

What Causes the difference in prices?

• Branding & Where its made, affecting quality control
• Material used in the handle, plastic, metal, pearl, bone, ivory, etc
• Metal used in the blade itself, carbon content, etc
• Thickness of the blade affecting how much metal is used

What are the differences between the metals used by Leatherman?
Leatherman uses 3 main types of metal in their knives and tools.

• Stainless Steel: Standard but high grade rust resistant steel
• 154cm Steel: US developed industrial grade steel, known for high corrosion resistance and great edge retention
• S30V Steel: US Developed premium grade steel with one of the best corrosion resistance and edge retention

[XxDrAg0nxX]

FLASHLIGHTS

Why are some Flashlights so expensive as compared to others?

• Material: Usually made of aircraft grade aluminium or some other precious metals that are stronger than cheap recycled aluminum
• Circuitry: Proper high grade and efficient circuit boards with modes as opposed to cheap direct to battery or resistors.
• Contacts: Often low resistance gold plated or Copper, as opposed to cheap alu.
• Reflectors: Good ones are made out of alu, cheap ones are often plastic PAINTED to look like alu. Playing an important part in Heat sinking your LED
• Front Lens: Good ones are Hardened, heat, scratch and crack resistant, cheap ones are just Plastic.
• Finishing: Hard Adonised level 3 Rifle Finish vs thin adonosing or paint.
• Switches: Better grade responsive & RELIABLE switches vs cheap contact points that are loose.
• Construction: Proper PRECISION milling and seals for waterproofing vs cheap low QC rough milling and construction
• LED: High grade and True Brightness Efficient LEDs vs Cheap low output LEDs

Sometimes you may come across cheap flashlights that are SUPER bright, often its because the LEDs are over-driven, and not because there is a good LED inside.

Often you will come across brands claiming to have actual Cree Q5 or R2 etc LEDs inside their flashlights selling very cheap, it us usually not true. You can easily overdrive a plain Q2 to R2 brightness, there is no way u can visually tell unless u break it open and test the LED, hence you are left with TRUSTING the brands to put the actual thing inside.

Some claim ridiculous lumen outputs on paper, but often do not perform as promised.

Like any product on the market, not believe in anything you READ online until you have seen and compared the actual item for yourself, and not be fooled by marketing gimmicks, edited pictures and unbelievable low prices.

Which Flashlight is right for me?
Know what battery you Prefer to use.
If you have shit loads of AA batteries around, or is provided for you by your company, use AA.
If not, Lithium is always the best as it has double the shelf life, and does not degrade and leak acid like Alkaline.
Lithium lights are always Smaller and Much Brighter as they have a higher voltage.

Do you use close range or long range?
For close range, find a light with textured / orange peel reflector, that has a low mode so that you do not blind yourself during use.
For long range, find a light with a smooth / polished reflector gives a tight spot / throw.

Does weight and size matter to you?
Professional lights are often smaller and more compact, easier to carry around in your pocket.
Tactical & weapon lights often are 2.5cm in diameter with much thicker walls and crowns, but are much more resistant to impacts and shocks.
Search lights are the biggest but are the brightest and often have large hotspots to throw far and flood a wider area.

[neonzap]

FOAM GUN & REPLICAS

Basic Modifications like:
1. Adding weight http://black-technology.com/forum/modeling-tutorials/(tutorial)-how-to-add-weight-to-the-m4-ris-carbine-rifle/
2. Spray painting your guns http://black-technology.com/forum/modeling-tutorials/(tutorial)-know-your-paints/

They can be found at modelling tutorials.
http://black-technology.com/forum/modeling-tutorials/

This section, also contains other advance modifications so do check them out.

Next, What do we use for weights?

1. We use wall putty. They are a clay like thing. we scoop them up and just dump them into the guns.  
They can be found at all hardware shops or some mama shops. Just go to the shop and ask for wall putty.

2. Some of us use plasticine
Plasticine is easy to handle as we can use hands to handle plasticine. But plasticine are lighter than putty.


ACCESSORIES
How do we attach accessories?

1. Normally guns comes with rails. All standard size rails are 20mm.
To attach accessories, the accessories must come with a 20mm rail mount.
As 20mm rails are the standard/ universal rails, almost all attachments are designed with 20mm mounts, so just buy whatever attachment you want and attach to your gun to preferance.

2. Some of the attachments, doesn't have mounts. Attachments like silencer, M4 sling mount. ETC
Some are modeled to fit the guns, so just follow instructions that comes with the accessories to mount them
Others like silencer, we find a way to mount them.

How we find a way? Ask yourself what's wrong first, then you try to remedy the problem.

One example: some of us like to attach silencer, but we can't.
What's wrong with it? The barrel is too thin to attach the silencer, it just falls out.
What to do to remedy it? Thicken the barrel. Use tapes or paper to tape around the barrel, making it thick enough to hold the silencer


Advanced Modifications,
Advance modifications, like charging handle, flipping of dust cover,and stuffs like that we use many tools to our advantage. It is like D&T already.
We cut, saw, tape, glue etc.
Use what you feel like using and mod to make your weapons one of a kind!


Now, if you have some questions
1. use the search function above. Surely there will be something you can find. If there is no answer to your question, feel free to PM any members you are familiar with, or you can PM me, I'll help you as much as I could, or I'll direct you to someone who has experience with the mod you're doing.


GOOD LUCK AND ENJOY THIS HOBBY TO YOUR FULLEST!!!!

Interesting FACTS about the guns: http://black-technology.com/forum/the-tactical-club/modding-commandents/

[Toys_god_of_War]

For Toy Replica
•   No matter what you do, your gun will break somewhere if roughly handled.

•   Heavy activities trash guns. Always make sure you can fix it easily.

•   If you are under the age of 13, you may think you're just the same as all the big kids, but older people will be able to spot the difference. VERY Easily.

•   Goop creates flexible bonds. Just give 24 hrs.

•   Epoxy is best for attaching large objects.

•   Hot glue is best for filling space and reinforcing bonds from other adhesives.

•   Solvent-welding produces ABSOLUTELY PERMANENT bonds between plastics, but is toxic and only works with compatible plastics

•   Real world experience trumps anything we can tell you.

•   You can never  wear enough Tactical wear to an event.

•   Before handling other replica, ask them how to handle it.

•   Before touching another's replica, ask them For Permission and if there are any special instructions to note.

•   Toy Replica is a lot different than airsoft so don't try and turn it into its equivalent.

•   Pistols are the easiest guns to mod, start with one.

•   Dremels, Pliers, pipecutters, and hacksaws, are invaluble tools.

•   Size IS NOT EVERYTHING although it is kool.

•   Have fun, and don't take the hobby too seriously.

•    Write-ups are not absolute guides, and do not necessarily cover everything you might run into.
     You CAN improvise/invent your own stuff if you have to - just use your brain and come up with it.

•  A good picture is always better than a description, no matter how long and detailed.
   If your replica broke, take a picture of the internals and post it.
   If you have a new mod, take a photo and show it off - or better yet, take several photos and show people how you did it.

[Toys_god_of_War]

For Foam Blaster
•   No matter what you do, your gun will break somewhere.

•   Foam Blaster games trash guns. Always make sure you can open the gun to fix it.

•   If you are under the age of 13, do not join NerfHaven, you may think you're just the same as all the big kids, but older people will be able to spot the difference. VERY Easily.

•   Goop creates airtight bonds.

•   Epoxy is best for attaching large objects.

•   Hot glue is best for filling space and reinforcing bonds from other adhesives.

•   Solvent-welding produces ABSOLUTELY PERMANENT bonds between plastics, but is toxic and only works with compatible plastics

•   Real world experience trumps anything we can tell you.

•   You can never bring enough water or darts to a Foam Blaster game.

•   Before using other’s air powered foam blaster, ask them how many times to pump it

•   Always prime your blaster before you reload it. If you get rushed, you'll be able to fire.

•   Before touching another's blaster, ask them For Permission and if there are any special instructions like pump count limits or no dry firing.

•   Foam Blaster game is a lot different than paintball or airsoft so don't try and turn it into its equivalent.

•   If you don't bring darts to a war, you don't play

•   Nightfinders are the easiest guns to mod, start with one.

•   Dremels, Pliers, pipecutters, and hacksaws, are invaluble tools.

•   RANGE IS NOT EVERYTHING

•   EYE PROTECTION IS A MUST

•   Have fun, and don't take the hobby too seriously.

•   Don't expect to rule the battlefield just because you finally got your hands on a Crossbow or + Bow.
     If you can't hit nothing, you now will not be able to hit ZIP with a very expensive toy.

•   Yes, it's a toy. And it's not made of adamantium. It will break eventually.

•    Write-ups are not absolute guides, and do not necessarily cover everything you might run into.
     You CAN improvise/invent your own stuff if you have to - just use your brain and come up with it.

•    A good picture is always better than a description, no matter how long and detailed.
     If your foam blaster broke, take a picture of the internals and post it.

•    If you have a new mod, take a photo and show it off - or better yet, take several photos and show people how you did it.

[Toys_god_of_War]

**This notice would be posted in all future events as a Reminder.**

1)  When going to a costume event like Cosplay convention or Halloween party, do use a bag of suitable size to transport your replicas.

2.) It is not advisable to show the replicas openly as there are members of the public who will mistake them as the real thing.  

3.) Don’t try to play pranks with member of the public with your toy replicas like running into a bank or school in costume and scream: “This is a STICK UP!”

4.) Respect your toy replica guns as rare item. As a general rule, the authorities don’t allow anything that looks remotely like a gun into Singapore unless it is been proven it is harmless and it is a toy.

5.) Threatening people and trying to rob with toy guns do LAND the would-be perpetrator in jail in Singapore ! (Applies to every civilized country as well)

6.) Most important of all, do exercise self-ownership of your toy replicas and always be accountable for your actions.

7.) Pay attention to the boundary set in the respective events

**This notice would be posted in all future events as a Reminder.**