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Author Topic: [Tutorial] Know your paints  (Read 12516 times)
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TerminaEX
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< : October 03, 2009, 02:55:40 PM>

Before painting for that realistic effect, you need to decide what kind of effect you which to achieve on your model. Do you want a brand-new, fresh out of the factory look? Or a battle-worn look?

Spray Paints:

Spray paints are great of achieving that smooth finish without the need for sanding.  When choosing your spray paint, ensure that it is not a water based spray paint. Epoxy spray paints like RJ and the Pylox sprays from NIPPON are all suitable for spraying. These have been known to adhere well to plastic and metal surfaces.

The technique:
1. Sand down (with fine, approx 180 grain) sand paper or file down rough edges if they are thick.

2. Clean surface of any dirt, grime, oil (usually from your bare hands touching the surface) and dust

3. Wear gloves when handling paint and ensure you wear a mask. Only spray paint in an open area.

4. Be sure to cover the floor and walls around the area where you are painting. A rough gauge is at least 4 foot (or 80cm) from end of model being painted.

5.  (method 1) Hold nozzle 4-6 inches (10-20cm) from the model and paint with a sweeping motion.
-This method saves paint but may cause the middle to be painted too thickly.

(method 2) Hold nozzle 2-3 inches (5-12cm) from the model and position in front of model. In a swift motion, move the spray across the surface to beyond the end of the model A strip of paint should be visible. Then position the nozzle such that when you repeat this painting technique, the second thin strip overlaps the first.
-This method ensures a smooth finish from end to end but wastes paint.

6. The drying time varies from paint to paint and colour. Do not touch the paint (as tempting as it is) or flip your model to paint the other side (it may just stick to the newpaper ruining the paint). Give at least 5 mins for it to dry. When it becomes dry to the touch, you may flip it over.

7. When painting is complete, drying process has not ended yet. You need to let it dry over several days (or sometimes weeks), this is also known as curing. You know the paint has cured when you can no longer smell the paint.

When painting for a metallic look:

Combination 1- RJ flat black followed by clear lacquer (gives a shiny black finish)

Combination 2- Nippon Metallic Black knight followed by dull (metallic finish with tactical
feel and look)

Combination 3- TAMIYA Metallic Black (TS-40) or NATO Black (TS-63). Reduce shiny effect to desired amount with dull lacquer

When painting for a "nonmetallic" component for a similar look to that of the real model gun:

Combination 1- RJ Dull Black (just 2 to 3 thin layers gets that perfect look and feel).

Combination 2- RJ Flat Black followed by dull black (use this combination if you don't' like to buy additional spray paints)

Combination 3- TAMIYA Matte Black (TS-06)

Synthetic Paints

This type of paint is cheaper than spray paint and is mostly used for weathering. You may also use this paint to paint a whole model but it tends to leave brush traces. Best paints to use are acrylic paints (like TAMIYA paints or RJ sythetic paints). Oil-based paints tend to dry on thick and are messy and difficult to control.

Art of weathering:

1. Find a smooth (preferably brand new brush)

2. Dip lightly in paint (for metal weathering use aluminium or silver)

3. Paint brush onto newspaper or plain paper until the brush is dry (thus the term dry-brushing). The dryer the better since you do not want to paint the model but leave traces on edges. Let paint dry on brush for 30 seconds.

4. Brush lightly over areas that you desire for a weathered look. Brush flat over areas that need to be completely painted.

Detail work:

1. When you need to paint specific areas or on surfaces just above others that you do not want to paint. You need to paint by relying on the surface tension of paint.

2. Dip a pointed object lightly (such as the back of a small paint brush or tip of thin tweezers) into paint and touch the surface that needs to be painted. (See example below)


*Photo from scrambyjess

To achieve this same look, you simply touch the letters with paint until you have got the whole letter painted.

This method also works when painting a dot or other kinds of details.

OMG! I messed up the paint job:

It happens once in a while to all of us. We were either too impatient and touched the paint or the newspaper stack next to you blew onto the wet paint.

Steps to reversing a mistake:

1. Swear and curse all you want. Since it'll do nothing to help, it's best to get that out of your system first. Shout a fancy expletive that rhymes with "fudge," "shoot" and "cheese pie."

2. Get some plastic safe thinner (such as TAMIYA thinner) and rub off paint with cloth/paper.

3. If certain areas are uneven, use of sandpaper may be required.

4. Paint again

5. Be sure not to mess up again.

Thank you for visiting this thread.
« Last Edit: October 03, 2009, 03:02:40 PM by TerminaEX » Logged

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TerminaEX
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< Reply #1 : October 03, 2009, 03:18:43 PM>

Hi all,

I created a thread for painting guides which you found on the internet or you yourselves have known.
Try to keep chit-chat/replies to a min.

And hope mods can sticky this thread. Thks
Here is my share...

Camo spray painting
http://www.gunnersgear.com/graces_camo/armory_cammo.htm

Camo (digital/normal) stencils
http://www.airsoftretreat.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=192

"Snake-skin" Camo painting with netting
http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/Airsoft-Replica-Custom-Pa-t70734.html

Easy digital camo painting
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7530

Pls add if you have a particular site or method regarding painting.  Cheesy
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SOCOM
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< Reply #2 : October 03, 2009, 05:51:24 PM>

terminex's goal is to get 1st prize lol
jia you jia you you can do it!Lol
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Alwin
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< Reply #3 : October 04, 2009, 09:24:57 AM>

You are sure to get it with this Current Tutorial.

No Doubt, agree to SOCOM.
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Reaper
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< Reply #4 : October 05, 2009, 01:32:06 PM>

You said curing takes a few days but my M4 still smells of paint a month after I sprayed it...
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SOCOM
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< Reply #5 : October 05, 2009, 01:41:13 PM>

lol the smell of paint on the gun is better then other smells hehe xD
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zhi kang
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< Reply #6 : October 05, 2009, 03:04:00 PM>

reaper, what brand is the spray ?
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TerminaEX
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< Reply #7 : October 05, 2009, 07:18:33 PM>

You said curing takes a few days but my M4 still smells of paint a month after I sprayed it...

Do note that I also said "or sometimes weeks"
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Alwin
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< Reply #8 : October 06, 2009, 08:21:03 AM>

Terminal, then is there a way to make it look like Dull black without using Dull black it self?
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Reaper
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< Reply #9 : October 06, 2009, 12:15:43 PM>

Do note that I also said "or sometimes weeks"

Does it depend on how many coats of paint? Cause I kind of used a bit too much paint...
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zhi kang
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< Reply #10 : October 06, 2009, 07:46:18 PM>

Use paint remover

http://black-tactical.com/store/replica-guns-modeling-tools-c-10_38/rj-paint-remover-450g-p-292
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Reaper
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< Reply #11 : October 06, 2009, 10:43:09 PM>

Is that the plastic safe type?
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zhi kang
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< Reply #12 : October 06, 2009, 10:55:04 PM>

Yeah  Grin
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zhi kang
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< Reply #13 : October 09, 2009, 07:43:16 PM>

Combination 2- Nippon Metallic Black knight followed by dull (metallic finish with tactical
feel and look) - Suitable to paint it on M16 or MP5 ??
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zhi kang
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< Reply #14 : October 09, 2009, 08:04:55 PM>

Dull Lacquer or spray paint ?
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TerminaEX
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< Reply #15 : October 09, 2009, 08:55:45 PM>

Dull Lacquer or spray paint ?

Yes, use dull laquer. Do not use too much or it might affect the colour.
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Reaper
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< Reply #16 : October 10, 2009, 01:01:51 PM>

I used Tamiya Metallic Black only..
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TerminaEX
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< Reply #17 : October 11, 2009, 07:23:11 PM>

I used Tamiya Metallic Black only..

Yeah, TAMIYA is actually the best choice but it's kinda expensive
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David.E
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< Reply #18 : May 03, 2010, 12:36:29 PM>

Hi. It me again, but for removing paint, use tupintine? Sorry for the spelling. Removing paint on the plastic. blurr
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Toys_god_of_War
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< Reply #19 : May 03, 2010, 12:54:08 PM>

Thinner is best.

Recommended no mistakes, because thinner or turpentine weakens the plastic when applied.

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